Monte
Xanic Winery –“The Quest for Excellence”
By
Dick Avery
In the late 80s a group of Mexican business men sat
around, sipping some of the good juice, listening to a presentation
about the idea of forming a new and different kind of winery. The
concept was to challenge the stereotype of Mexican wines as being
just so much “plonk” (inferior vino). The presentation
was very professional and was enthusiastically received. That is,
until the gentlemen were cordially invited to make a financial commitment
to the project. Suddenly, the room became very quiet. Conversation,
which up to this point had been lively, came to a screeching halt!
“A winery? I have to put up how much? You’ve
got to be kidding! Don’t you read the trade journals? The Mexican
wine industry is down the tubes! Over a hundred grape growers have
disappeared!” Of the group, only Manuel Castro and Eric Hagsater
raised their hands. Their goal was considered slightly insane. The
wine culture was, at that time, practically non-existent. Most people
favored imported wines, and there was little promise of any short
term financial gain.
Unfazed by the negativity, the two men founded a partnership
with three other wine enthusiasts with the objective of making world-class
Mexican wines. They recruited Hans Backoff, a UC Davis trained executive
in the fruit concentrate business, who had extensive knowledge in
wine production, and who became the first winemaker. He instituted
a style centered around low yield, high intensity vinification methods
maximizing balance and flavors. The grape clusters are hand selected
to obtain quality standards. The most modern equipment was installed,
including a rotary fermentor used for color extraction, a rare piece
of technology in the Valle de Guadalupe. New French oak barrels are
purchased every year. Wines aged while listening to Mozart. Backoff
explains, “it keeps the workers happy and it can’t hurt
the grapes”.
As things began to percolate in the late 80s, a name
was needed for the new venture. They agreed an “X” was
needed to give the name a Mexican flair. One of the partnership suggested
“Xanic”, the name of his eldest daughter. “Xanic”
is a Cora Indian dialect meaning “the flower that blooms after
the first rains”. The Coras must’ve been a people of a
few words! Since the winery was situated on a hill, the name “Monte”
was added. The first vintage was kicked off in ’88, but not
sold, instead enjoyed by the 5 founding families. The following year,
the first commercial vintage produced a whopping 500 cases that they
were able to sell for the equivalent of $20 USD per bottle! Needless
to say, that price was not even remotely competitive at that time!
That experience convinced the partners that quality sells more than
quantity and that word-of-mouth recommendations creates more sales
than conventional advertising! They were off and running!
Today, Monte Xanic cultivates about 75 hectares (185
acres), and produce 42000 cases annually of a broad array of ten wine
varietals and 14 different products, including Cabernet Sauvignon,
Merlot, Cab-Franc, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. To insure and
maintain high quality, the winery’s goal is to not exceed 50000
cases annually. Their wines have won numerous medals in international
wine fairs and competitions. The Chardonnay took the bronze at the
2000 Challenge International du Vin in Blaye-Bourg in Bordeaux, while
the ’95 Cab took the gold and the Civart Orix d’Excellence
award. Tasting through the line, the impression Monte Xanic makes
is a winery with a definite Bordeaux slant. I thought their reds were
a nice balance between a more fruit driven, California style, and
the more restrained, structured, well-oaked Bordeaux offerings. And,
like many of the Valle’s wineries, the reds are the stars here.
Still, their Sauvignon Blanc “Kristal” with honeysuckle
and citrus flavors is delicious and a great “food wine”.
Their Chenin Blanc/Colombard blend with hints of cinnamon and honey
won a silver medal in the Long Beach, California wine competition.
Both are stand-outs and excellent bargains!
This
year, Monte Xanic celebrates its 20 anniversary. The partners are
as totally committed to excellence and strengthening Mexico’s
wine culture as ever. They say, “We are ones creating our own
history here”!
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