The
Grand Old Man of Mexican Wines -- Casa Madero
In
1575, the Spanish Crown appointed governor of then-to-be state of
Coahuila, and the founder of San Luis Potosi, his Excellency, the
estimable Francisco de Urdinola. The good governor founded the first
winery in the Parras (“grapevines”) Valley, and produced
the first commercial wine in the Western Hemisphere. Although not
Mr. Popular among the local indigenous population, we can raise a
glass to ol’ Francisco for getting the ball rolling in Mexico.
Shortly
thereafter, in 1597, Felipe II of Spain deeded a land grant to Don
Lorenzo Garcia who founded the Hacienda de San Lorenzo. In the late
19th century, Don Evaristo Madero Elizondo bought the wine production
of the Hacienda from its then French owners, and Casa Madero, the
oldest surviving winery in the New World, was born. Today, Jose Milmo,
the great, great grandson of Don Evaristo, continues the tradition.
Happily, the hacienda and wine cellar structure have been preserved
in their original beautiful condition.
The
Parras Valley, (reputed to be one of the hideouts of Poncho Villa)
sits at an elevation of about 5000 ft., and has the ideal climate
for grape cultivation. Quite arid, with cool nights, and warm days,
its mountain spring water creates an oasis for man and vine. Primarily
red wine country, with low rainfall (only about 11in.annually, and
only in the harvest months of June, July, and August), superb Tempranillo,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and Merlot are produced, and in the right
hands, and with careful handling, delicate, delicious whites such
as Chenin blanc, Chardonnay, and Semillon can wet your whistle nicely.
In the
70s the Milmo family, who had been producing grapes normally used
in brandy, (and still do a brisk brandy business selling primarily
to markets in northern Europe), began to replant some of the vineyards
with popular varietals such as Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Most of the production each year still goes overseas, but Jose is
anxious to shed the “Mexican Wine” label and actively
markets more and more to restaurants. Currently, the product split
is 60% brandies, 40% wine (thanks in no small part to Jose’s
passion for wine!).
The mid
70s however, were not kind to Jose and Casa Madero. The dreaded phylloxera
insect, whose favorite breakfast, luncheon and dinner entrée
are the roots of grapevines, virtually wiped out the vineyards over
a period of time. So each year, about 100 acres were replanted with
vines shoots grafted from European varieties which were free from
infection. It wasn’t ‘til 2003 that all the vineyards
were replanted, this time with more careful selection of varieties
best adapted to the climate. Today, over 1000 acres, with highly sophisticated
irrigation systems, organically produce over 350000 cases annually.
already making wine from indigenous vines at the Mission of Santa
Maria
Since
most Mexican wine drinkers favor European style wines, most Mexican
wineries, including Casa Madero, tend to look to Bordeaux for stylistic
inspiration. The Casa’s reds reflect that emphasis, with somewhat
restrained and complex personalities of fruit and mineral tones. But
I found the whites leaning Californian, with the fruit forward, fat,
chewy flavors for which Napa, Sonoma, and the Russian River areas
are known.
Today,
Jose continues to push the envelope on quality. Each year, he invites
winemakers from all over the world to spend a sabbatical summer at
the winery to exchange ideas on ways to make the best wines possible.
He is determined to improve his wines, increase his presence in the
national market, and show Mexican consumers what Casa Madero is made
of. Having met him, and sensing his commitment, I have no doubt he’ll
do it.
“Summertime
with wine and the living is easy”.
Dick
Avery is the head sipper at VinoClubSMA, a wine club devoted to the
enjoyment of “boutique” Mexican wines through free tastings.
He can be reached at vinoclubsma@gmail.com
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